Landscape Designer in Los Angeles, CA
We always pick axe the area by hand first, to a depth of 6-8 inches deep to ensure the soil is able to accommodate our machinery. We then use our RotoTiller Machine, the best garden tiller for your land, and till and aerate the soil 6-8 inches again. Along the way, we will remove unwanted roots and debris from previous lawns and weeds. We are highly knowledgeable about the soil food web and how to amend your soil for the best results. We use composted manure and top quality compost, more than any other company, to create soil that will naturally and organically feed your lawn for seasons to come. The best fertilizer for vegetables, grass, and plants is always a natural product, not the chemicals most of our competitors use. Don’t settle for cheap sod. We use only trusted suppliers to ensure our materials are always of the highest quality.
We also offer complete sprinkler system installation and repairs on existing systems. All sprinkler repairs are done at an affordable labor rate plus the cost of parts, if needed. Even if you need a simple replacement sprinkler head or a new valve, we can help.
If you are looking for one of the best landscapers in Los Angeles, you have come to the right place. Our entire process and pricing is transparent and affordable. We will explain, step by step, what your options are and the process it will take us to get there. Create a bid on our website or call us today for more information!
3 questions to ask while ensuring quality the Best Landscape Design in Los Angeles, CA
The Contractor’s State License Board recommends that you the customer get at least 3 bids to compare, and I recommend you get at least 3 bids as well; but I want you to ask 3 questions of these other “competitor” contractors’.
1.) Do they Pick Axe before they RotoTill? We Pick Axe 6 – 8 inches deep in order to ensure that the Roto Tiller will be able to Till up and aerate your soil. Many so called landscapers don’t Pick Axe at all, and there is no way they can properly rototill and prepare the soil.
2.) When they RotoTill do they volunteer the information regarding how deep they will go? Now that you are asking, will they commit in writing anywhere how deep the RotoTiller will go? We go 6 – 8 inches deep with the rototiller.
3.) What are they going to use to amend your soil? If anything at all? Many of my supposed competitors don’t amend the soil at all. Some of my “competition” will say they will spread fertilizer pellets. Ask them how long the fertilizer pellets will fertilize for? Fertilizer pellets are chemicals that are used up and washed away in about one month. The volume of organics in the 3 inches of compost suspended in your soil all throughout your 6 – 8 inches of top soil break up dense clay soils and brings much needed texture to sandy soils. Water retention, drought tolerance, aeration, Nutrients, Life, etc.
Those are the basic three questions, speaking to Soil Prep. The Foundational soil preparation goes to long term customer satisfaction and long term health of the landscape.
Why are we the only landscapers transparent enough and straight forward enough to tell you step by step what the steps even are? Giving you the customer choices and explaining the pros and cons and costs associated with each choice and step? Let you know down to the minutia of how deep your soil will be tilled, how much compost we need to use to properly amend your soil, what the costs are for disposal, what the costs are for sod, what you should expect to receive and pay for a sprinkler system, etc.? Because it’s the way we would want to be treated, and it’s the only reasonable way to gather enough information to be able to make an informed decision. Why don’t my “competitors” do the same? Because they are afraid you might then be informed enough to be able to hold them to their word.
Compost, drought tolerance, drainage, nutrients, biological life
95lbs of compost will absorb and retain 195lbs of water, helping to make the soil itself more drought tolerant. If we mix blend and suspend this much compost throughout that 6 – 8 inch topsoil / root zone layer, all of this organic matter helps with erosion issues and wicks and helps spread irrigated water more evenly, so that it can even penetrate clay soils that may be too compacted and dense to even allow water to penetrate. In sandy soils that don’t contain enough organic matter and are made up of rocky sandy mineral content but don’t have the organics content that do the job of absorbing water or nutrients and retaining that water and nutrients in the top upper most soil where the root system of your lawn or vegetable garden or flower garden are. Without this necessary organic matter suspended in the soil, any water or nutrients would be washed away and end up way down maybe as much as 25 feet deep where ever the water table is in your area, largely useless to ground cover lawns or the shallow root systems of vegetable gardens or flower gardens. This compost because it is so rich with Enzymes and Beneficial Bacteria and Nematodes brings life back to your soil and helps to create a natural biological cycle, a veritable orgy of organisms that eat this nutrient rich organic compost that then replenishes and further fertilizes your soil from the castings of such things as earth worms. This biologic cycle feeds your soil and your landscape for seasons and seasons, not just a month or two.
Nutrients NPK chemical makeup, Biology – Beneficial Bacteria, Enzymes, Nematodes, PH balance
Nutrients NPK chemical makeup, Biology – Beneficial Bacteria, Enzymes, Nematodes, PH balance…
Our normal everyday soil treatment process is just heads and tails better than any other landscapers out there, so shouldn’t we be more expensive than the other Landscapers? We do the more labor intensive work of Pick Axing and RotoTilling, much deeper than the others will commit to. We bring more quantity of material to amend your soil with, and the quality of using hot composted all organic compost over just using a few handfuls of artificial man made chemical petroleum based fertilizers. By design we should in fact be 20% less expensive. How can we afford to do more physical work, use better quality materials, use more quantity of materials to amend your soil with, and purposely be 20% less? It all has to do with not having to drive all over Los Angeles and Orange County to give our bids. By not having to drive around in traffic to first give a bid and then come back another day to do the actual work it makes us much more efficient and we appear to be more upfront and straight forward; more efficient equals more profitable, more upfront and straight forward means more work on a more consistent basis; more profitable and more consistent work means we can afford to charge you 20% less than our “competitors”. I encourage you to get at least 2 other bids, and compare their lack of information regarding each step or even what the steps are, compare the quality of work based on reviews left by their previous customers, compare the lack of information on their website (if they have a website at all), then compare their price against mine. I already know what the results of such a comparison will be but you can only truly appreciate what I am offering and what we actually do for our clients only after you have looked at my “competitors” or really lack of real competition.