Los Angeles Landscaping Services
Initial RotoTilling - Removal of the Old Lawn or Weeds, Pick Axing the Soil 6 - 8 inches deep so that we know the RotoTiller is getting in there 6 - 8 inches deep as well, just to bust up the soil and get it Aerated $0.42 per square foot area.
Composting – Pick up and deliver enough Composted Manure for a 3" layer all around $0.30 per square foot of area on average.
Secondary Tilling - Spread the Compost all around for a 3” layer and then with the machine we RotoTiller again and we Mix the Compost into the soil 6 - 8 inches deep, $0.33 per square foot.
For a total of only $1.05 per square foot to prep the soil, Properly amending it and Aerating it and making it more drought tolerant.
You can at this point decide if you want to grow grass from Seed or from Sod. We will spread the Seed or lay the Sod. Seeding is about 10% of the cost of Sod, or the Sod can be purchased at any number of places but we like Pacific Sod for thier quality and service as well as the fact that Pacific Sod has just never let us down or our customers.
Or maybe what you were wanting was a Flower Garden or Vegetable Garden? Prepping the soil is the same process and equally as important in all cases.
Repair - We can Repair what is broken ( @ $60.00 an hour for labor, plus the cost of parts that may be needed) Replacement sprinkler heads are $10.00 each, a new Valve is $85.00 each, a new timer is $160.00, broken PVC and fittings are like $1.00 each, etc.
Complete New Install - We can Install a Complete New System if one is not already there. (Best case scenario is $400.00 per 1000 sq ft of contiguous space for the PVC that is burried in the ground along with the Elbows and Fittings and Risers, and the Sprinkler Heads themselves. Plus $85.00 installed if a new valve is needed.)
Links to relevant information for the DIY crowd.
First of all, here is a very good stand alone site that is basically a very well written book with very good illustrations on how to install a sprinkler system. http://www.irrigationtutorials.com/
Secondly, here is a very good 1 hour video that shows all aspects of installing a sprinkler system. All of the decision process and planning processes. http://www.orbitonline.com/support/videos/
And the best for last, here is some free software that you can use to draw out your entire property and then design your entire sprinkler system completely from beginning to end. http://www.orbitonline.com/sprinkler-system-designer/edraw-US.exe
When you have worn yourself out looking at all of this information, you can come back and just hire us to do the install for you .
Improve aeration and water retention. Adding compost to soil builds good soil structure and texture, increasing the amount of air that can infiltrate and the amount of water it can hold. Adding compost to heavy clay soil loosens the packed soil by opening up pore spaces that, like little tunnels, carry air and water down into the soil. Sandy soils, which tend to let water drain away too rapidly, are also improved with the addition of compost. The fine particles are united into larger ones that can hold a greater amount of water-100 pounds of compost can hold about 195 pounds of water! By increasing the soil's moisture-holding capacity, compost is helping the soil to become more drought talerant and also helps control erosion.
Supply nutrients. When fresh manure is spread on a field, about 50 percent of the nitrogen is in a highly soluble form and will be washed out by rain when it is spread on a pasture. In compost, however, 95 to 97 percent of nitrogen has been converted to a much more stable form and will be slowly released, allowing plants to use it over a longer period of time. Compost doles out nutrients slowly when plants are small and at greater rates as soil temperatures warm up and the major growth period begins. (Soil microorganisms that release the nutrients from compost work harder as temperatures increase.) The benefits of adding compost will also last for more than one season. Composted manure releases about 50 percent of its nutrients in the first season and a decreasing percentage in the following years. This means that with constant additions of compost, the reserves of plant nutrients in the soil are being built up to the point where, for several seasons, little fertilizer of any kind may be needed.
Bacteria, earthworms, and pH. Compost also supports essential soil bacteria; feeds earthworms and allows them to multiply; and gradually changes soil pH levels that are either too low (acidic) or too high (alkaline).
Using compost in garden and landscape areas. Compost can be worked into garden beds by hand or with a tiller or added to the soil when planting trees, shrubs, annuals, or perennials. Compost is also an excellent mulch or topdressing around flowers, shrubs, and trees. This mulch will help your plants get through the dry summer with less need for irrigation. When using it as a mulch around trees or shrubs, start three to four inches from the trunk and spread the compost out to the dripline keeping it about three inches deep.